Many emails reflect common questions. We'll keep adding these anwers, frequently.
QUILT BUYING BASICS
I am new to hammocking and my budget is limited to one quilt. What should I get?
Good insulation is imperative to a successful night of camping out. We strongly recommend your first purchase to be an underquilt. About 65-70% of your body heat escapes from your backside, through the thin layers of your hammock's fabric. A pad helps to a point before colder temps drive you to find a wamer solution. While you can pile on layers or use an already owned sleeping bag for your top insulation, it is difficult to keep your body warm without a properly designed underquilt. A full length or a 3/4 length underquilt can help create a good seal against the elements.
I am from __________. I am unsure what quilt rating I need for my area. What should I look for?
Regardless of where you are from, the best way to determine your needs will be with your own camping habits. If you do not sleep in weather conditions below a certain temperature rating, you can safely assume our quilt rating will be true to its claim.
* If you are a cold sleeper, pushing the temperature rating past its limits is not recommended
* If you do not hike or camp in temperatures below 40*F, then the 40*F set will work well for you, etc.
* Windy climates without a good shelter can compromise the quilt's ratings.
* Caloric intake, weight, clothing, humidity index, etc. are all variables that need considered when buying a quilt
I hike in temperatures from 80*F through 20*F. With such a wide range, how do I purchase a shoulder season (20* set) without overheating in the warm nights?
Our quilts are designed with ventilation systems to help create a flexible window of comfort. The topquilt is available with a snap footbox to open up completely for air flow. Our dual suspension underquilt system can be loosened easily for air ventilation between the hammock and the underquilt. The same system can be tightened for the cold nights, allowing for a good range of weather conditions while maintaining comfort.
What is the difference between a Phoenix and an Incubator? What should I choose?
The full sized incubator is for coverage from past the head to past the feet. In contrast, the Phoenix is designed to insulate the user from their shoulders to their calves. Most of the time, the Phoenix is geared toward long distance hikers that are trying to save as much pack weight and every ounce they possibly can.
You will need a pad of some kind to insulate you feet and you will have to wear something on your head if you want to achieve the temperature rating of your under quilt.
What is the added benefit of overfill and what do the various levels (1-4 oz) translate to in terms of real world performance?
Overfill is available for those who plan to push the temperature rating of their quilt. While we rate our quilts generously, some users plan to push the quilts a bit past their limits, but not enough to jump their order to the next available rating. They will opt for an ounce or two of overstuff for extra insurance. Variables prevent us from making it an exact science, however. Caloric intake, clothing, shelter, other insulation, etc. can factor in how much the increase of the temp ratings are with overstuff. For example, an underquilt of a 20*F rating with one ounce of overstuff can be used to 15*F with a solid topquilt, a good shelter (tarp), adequate caloric intake, and a normal body temperature.
I am uniquely built. Can you help me design my quilt around my own dimensions?
We are honored to have worked with a wide variety of clients who have become customers for life. From young children to doubling our sizes for couples who sleep together, as well as folks up to 7 feet tall, we have the privilege of creating gear so no one is limited to quality insulation and shelter. Contact us to develop a customized quote just for you.
I'm thinking about ordering the Burrow 40 with 2oz overfill. Can you add most of that overfill to the baffles near the footbox? My feet are cold in a hammock!
We can absolutely do that. All you need to do is request in the comment box of your order that the overfill goes only into the footbox, and we'll make it happen.
Have you thought about making one whole quilt (a sleeping bag) that covers the bottom and top of me?
While some vendors have made multipurpose/all-in-one quilts, the variables make it difficult to create a quality product that fits the user in various elements. Making our quilts dedicated for each purpose gives you the optimal performance you can ask of your gear. Risks of down compression (which lose insulation) is also increased, limiting your ability to stay warm when you need it.
I sometimes go to ground. Do I need to do anything different to my topquilt order so I can use it for hanging and tent camping?
Virtually everyone who goes to ground needs to opt for a wide version of the topquilt. A hammock's design cups the user, which means an underquilt also must cover not just the flat surface of person, but up over the sides. As a result, topquilts are designed to fit just inside the hammock, and not down under the user, where the down would be compressed and considered useless. When you sleep on the ground, you lose the side insulation that the underquilt provided you, thus requiring you to use the added width of the topquilt. This is why we recommend wide topquilts for our "ground dwellers".
If I compress an under quilt for a trip and it only spends 6-8 hours a day in the compression sack, will it lose its loftiness just from being compressed. To clarify, if I take a quilt in and out of the compression sack 100 times will it lose loft just from being crushed down so small?
We have stressed that goose down should not be compressed for long periods of time. Specifically, your quilt should not be kept in a stuffsack or compression sack and put away until next season. A pillowcase, a trash bag, a large plastic bin,or hanging it up is ideal.
6-8 hours in a compression sack or stuffsack, then aired out to be used for the night, even over 100 times, should not compromise the insulation. With this kind of use, your quilt should last a long time. As you continue to use it, however, the goose down can shift and migrate, which is normal and expected. When it does, a simple patdown (no shaking) back to the areas lacking in down works very well.
TARP BUYING BASICS
My hammock is 11' long. Does this mean I need a 12' ridgeline tarp to make sure I'm covered?
If you have an 11' hammock, you have about 109" of hammock within the 11' ridgeline, and with the tarp at 132" of coverage, that leave you with 11.5" on either side of coverage, so you should be fine with a 11' tarp. We recommend 11' for most folks because to find trees that will work with 12' tarps can be trickier. That being said, plenty of folks order the 12' and make it work. If you are in a heavily wooded area, then you would have more choice locations to fit that length in, but it is a preference.
I have a bridge hammock. How do I make sure I have enough clearance so my poles do not puncture the tarp?
Bridge hammocks are becominng very popular. To compensate for the extra space needed to clear the poles, you can request that the panel pullouts be spaced in the proximity of where the poles would be, so you can pull the tarp panel out further to avoid contact and possibly puncturing your shelter. The pullouts, generally 49.5" apart, can be modified to 77" apart to create the recommended spacing for clearance.